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Additional Info
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| The shores of the Bay of Fundy are simply gorgeous. |
The most often question I received after stating that we were off to Moncton and the Bay of Fundy for CMG’s first tour of the 2003 season was – WHY? This rather compact, and diverse region, is largely bypassed by riders - it shouldn’t be. The area between the powerful Bay of Fundy and the relative tranquility of the Northumberland Strait has all the ingredients of a terrific tour – nice twisties, fantastic scenery, some of the friendliest people anywhere and of course, seafood to die for.
Anywhere you travel in Canada you’ll find geography on a grand scale and the area of the Bay of Fundy is no exception. It’s as if a celestial back-hoe had scooped out the mammoth water filled trench with the resulting shape, latitude and angle of the bay combining to produce the highest tides in the world at over 45 feet. The constant churning of the bottom stirs up nutrients and supports an environment teeming with life including the visits of more whale species than any other location on earth. Over the eons the power of the tides has carved out the spectacular red cliffs and bays, which form the beautiful backdrop for our ride.
THE CITY OF MONCTON
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| Editor 'arris pretends to do CMG work at the Beausejour hotel dressed in nothing other than a t-shirt and a pair of socks (no change there then). |
The city of Moncton sits strategically atop the bay on the New Brunswick side. This location has made the city an important transportation hub as nothing by land can get in and out of the provinces of PEI, Nova Scotia or Newfoundland, without passing through – or by – the city. In the past it was an important rail hub and today it remains a key transportation and distribution centre becoming one of the fastest growing regions of the Maritimes.
We spurned the super highway and entered the city via the old road that follows the Petitcodiac River – famous for the tidal bore which rushes up the river twice daily. With a population of around 60,000 it’s not difficult to find your way around and we quickly found the Beausejour hotel in the city centre. Our home for the next 5 nights, the Beausejour has all the creature comforts and more importantly it is a walk from all the eating and drinking establishments, which we would be frequenting.
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| No, the glass is normal size. Claude is only 3' 4". |
As you walk the streets of the city you immediately become aware of the truly bilingual nature of the population. Whereas in most of Canada the idea of bilingualism remains a myth or has been overtaken by multiculturalism, in Moncton it is a reality with an almost even split between the two old founding ethnic groups. Both groups can trace their ancestry to sets of survivors – the Acadian French were either one of only 100 families which remained following the mass forced expulsions by the British in 1755 or were among those that later returned – the English were loyalists who survived and fled the nationalistic zeal and excesses during and following the American Revolutionary War.
It has always been easier to leave than to stay in most places of the Maritimes and those who remain today have a very strong sense of place and of who they are as a community. This confidence surely accounts for the pride, friendliness and hospitality for which they are so deservedly known.
MONCTON LOOPS – Additional Info
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| Grass Snake! |
NOVA SCOTIA GRASS SNAKES - Beware, some of the side-roads can get a little rough in this Province. Specifically the not overly rare, but still always a treat to come across, Nova Scotia “grass snake” is a distant – but much more vicious – cousin to the more common Canadian “tar snake”.
CAPE ENRAGE - When the federal government closed down the lighthouse Dennison Tate and a local group of adventure seekers persuaded the feds to hand over the site. Today on the sheer cliffs you’ll find dozens of rappellers young and old scaling up and down. A cozy restaurant occupies the old lighthouse keeper’s house where you can refresh yourself as you scamper over the site. Well worth the visit.
SHEDIAC TO BUCTOUCHE - Sights along the way include the windswept dunes of Buctouche, the Pays de la Sagouine – a pioneer type village of Acadian culture – and the Soaperie at St. Louis de Kent. I don’t know what we expected, although an historical presentation proved quite humourous even though it was entirely in French (much to the frustration of Mr. Seck).
BANGOR STOPOVER
Bangor has changed since my youth in Saint John NB, when the Maine town was merely a place we blasted through on our way to the bright lights of Montreal. With a rejuvenated town centre and waterfront, it is attracting people and businesses back to the downtown core. This is also where we found our rest-stop for the night – the newly reopened Charles Inn.
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| The Charles Inn (Bangor) proved to be very bike-friendly. |
The Charles Inn is situated right in the middle of downtown and is walking distance from a choice of pretty good restaurants/pubs and, most importantly of all, Bangor’s best micro brewery, the Sea Dog Brewing Co – where we went to eat and get pissed ... err, sample the brews.
Charles Inn Rates - Prices vary depending on season and standard of room, but they start from US$65.00 (standard room, 2 persons, off-season) to US$139.00 (Suite, 2 persons, in-season). Prices include an actual breakfast (none of this old muffin and watery coffee crap).
BIG MAPS
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