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I kept looking at the various European web sites where fully prepped KTM’s were dominating the field. I had already acquired a KTM LC4 Supermoto back in 2002 so the plan was hatched to make it competitive and have a go at the new challenge of getting sideways at speed—Supermoto style. Having no ground clearance problems, loosing one cylinder—and more than 220 extra pounds that came with the Beemer—I couldn’t wait to go racing. But beware, Supermotard is not just road racing on dirt bikes. As someone who’s come into the sport from a roadracing background, allow me to pass on my season’s steep learning curve. LESSON 1 - THE REAL DEAL
Seems like riding a ‘motard automatically qualifies you as a lunatic. I like that. Having said that, there are two routes to Supermoto. You are either a fantasy driven would-be roadracer or a bona-fide enduro/motocross nut, temporarily turned on to pavement. Nowhere did this come home to me than when I participated in the first event of the new Supermoto Canada series. Because, you see, real Supermoto involves not just a dirt section, but jumps!
Humour aside, I could see that I needed some training before attempting that sort of event. So I did what I was comfortable with—the pavement thing—and ran the full (dirt-free) ASM Supermotard series in St-Eustache instead.
Although I have not ventured back into the world or dirt/asphalt Supermotarding since my high-side experience, I have been following the series via Costa’s participation and—with my new gained experience—feel that I may just have to have another go and try the last two rounds. LESSON 2 – THE RIGHT STUFF
In the ASM series, I often played catch-up to a racer called Gwen Paget. I spent the season wrenching and adjusting, playing with this doodad and the next, while Gwen—a professional motorcycle mechanic during the week—could barely get himself to check oil level. Gwen would watch over my shoulder and have this little smile. His secret? Apart from swimming two or three times a week, all he had was a bone stock CRF, with 17” wheels and a big front brake. No exhaust, no trick engine parts and stock suspension. Not even the latest rubber!
LESSON 3 – THE RIGHT BIKE
It wasn’t until I tried a Honda CRF450 that I realized how much easier a lightweight bike is to ride at race speeds. Even with all the road hardware removed, the KTM is still 60 lbs heavier than the CRF. The lighter bike accelerates out of corners harder and has a better power to weight ratio with a similar top speed (with the right gearing). In fact, my KTM Supermoto is probably the Supermotard that actually feels closest to a road bike. This highlights one decision that any aspiring Supermoto racers need to consider: do you modify a motocross design or do you adapt a street legal motard or enduro to suit? The answer isn’t all that obvious.
The KTM LC4 640 Supermoto or Duke II and the Honda XR650’s are prime examples. You’d be amazed at how much horsepower can be extracted out of these when modified. It isn’t uncommon to see these modified bikes reach a healthy 60 hp or more at the rear wheel! A word of caution here: it is easy—as in any motorized sport—to let yourself get completely out of hand and spend horrible amounts of money on every potential go-faster gizmo. This is not the case in Supermoto, where a decent basic set-up is all you need. Sure, that cool exhaust and wicked bigger carb are sooooo tempting (trust me, I know, and so does my bank manager) but the truth is it won’t mean much when a better rider passes you on the outside—sideways—with a bike having 20hp less. LESSON 4 – SLIDING TO NIRVANA
Unfortunately I ran all season without understanding how this is done correctly. Finally—this past weekend—I got a glimpse of how it should be done. First you need speed, and lots of it. Without enough speed when approaching the corner, it is impossible to try and slide in. Second, you need to master the clutch. Approaching the corner at full speed, clutch in, down it two gears, apply gentle pressure on the rear brake, start braking at the front—transferring weight—and partially release the clutch. Use you body to turn the bike sideways as you correct with the bars and aim for the apex. By the apex, the clutch is out, the inside foot is out and you are back on the power.
At first, you are more likely to high-side if you are aggressive, or slide in a straight line right off the track (hilarious for your friends watching). The key here is practice. I started getting a feeling for it while practicing in the rain with no-one around me. After that I wanted to do it again and again. Remember the first time your knee slider touched down? Remember your first second gear wheelie that lasted more than one second? Remember the first time you… never mind. So as the season gets closer to the end I am starting to think about taking the Supermoto on the ice, putting a 21’’front and 18’’ rear with studded tires and head for the lake and slide and slide and slide until the spring, when’s it back to asphalt ... and maybe some dirt. FINALLY, REMEMBER THE FOLLOWING …Crashing:
Gear worth getting:
Your bike:
Technique:
MODIFYING THE KTM SUPERMOTO
I lowered the suspension by two inches, with relevant valving and oil viscosity to give the bike a lower stance and much greater chassis composure. However, two inches was a tad too much and I would recommend less, probably 1” instead, as I can now grind the pedals a little too easily. Nevertheless, these suspension changes are the single biggest improvement made to the bike and I strongly recommend it. I also raised the fork tubes 10mm over the triple clamp to help turn-in. It hasn’t affected stability as a result.
With my amateur talent I would never have attempted to test the limits of adhesion in the same manner with a road-bike. But with a light-weight, narrow width and large handlebars, it just plain encourages you to do so. It is one of the appeals of Supermoto that you can lean the bike so far over, load the front and get away with murder.
I thought you couldn’t get a soft enough compound for motarding but you can! Keep in mind the kind of surface you will be racing on and select a soft for pavement only. Keep the hardcore Supermoto compounds for mixed surfaces where they won’t get so hot.
Gearing was changed according to the track. For track days where I was running the longer version of the track I would gear 16/38. For the St-Eustache Supermotard track I geared 17/42 (stock) and at the very tight Mécaglisse in Notre-Dame-de-la-Merci, I would go to 15/40 or even 15/42.
All the unnecessary road legal hardware was also removed. Of course, like any self-respecting racer, I recently ordered more performance parts (Akrapovic pipe, Keihin FCR-41…) but that will be for next year ... bank manager allowing. JP Schroeder Thanks to:Pirelli (for the tires). Elka Suspension for the suspension set-up. |
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